Wagyu beef usually refers to high-quality Japanese beef, but not all meat from cattle raised in Japan is classified as wagyu beef unless it meets certain criteria. Wagyu must be any of the four Japanese breeds of beef cattle. Wagyu beef’s outstanding features include the marbled fine lines of fat called sashi that melts quickly on the palate and the peach- or coconut-like sweet flavor called wagyu-ko it emits when grilled. No other beef can emulate this flavor, which stimulates the olfactory nerve and enhances umami (savory taste). When you eat wagyu beef, don’t get too excited. Start with appreciating the aroma before taking the first bite.